Forte de São Filipe

Another castle with a panoramic view. Stand by the wall and feel like the king of the world.

In the 15th century, Setúbal became a center of maritime activity. Despite the influx of wealth from global trade, the city lacked funds for a fort to protect its riches, exemplifying national economic history. Business consultants might call this a ”cash flow problem”: expeditions were so costly that each new trip had to be funded by the quick sale of goods from the previous voyage. Naturally, the pressure to sell quickly lowered prices, and the budget was further strained by the massive costs of court maintenance and the perpetual cycle of interest payments — a famous downward spiral.

Due to a lack of documentation, historians disagree slightly. As a compromise: the fortress construction remained in the initial stages due to other priorities. The project became serious around 1583 under Philip II, who is said to have been present at the cornerstone laying. Philip was king of Spain and Portugal in a ”personal union,” which not all Portuguese people appreciated. Hence, there’s debate over whether the project was a show of power against the strong opposition in Setúbal. Architecturally, the star shape increased the range and allowed for all-around defense with no blind spots, featuring a double defense ring with a wide moat in a location that was already difficult to conquer.

Other key points remain: the mentioned opposition armed itself for a war of independence starting in 1640, the 1755 earthquake struck, and during the Napoleonic occupation, the aging complex was used out of necessity. In 1962, as part of a ”return to Portugal’s global power,” a luxury hotel opened in the empty fortress. It closed in 2014 due to structural problems, and today there is a nice café with a wide view.