Ermelinda Freitas

Top wines without touristy frills.

The area around Fernando Pó is one vast vineyard and can be explored with tips from the main house. The leader in the pack, with an annual production of 20 million liters on 550 hectares, is Casa Ermelinda Freitas. Although it’s one of the most esteemed estates in Portugal, the tours are surprisingly personal — you won’t find many tour buses with cruise ship passengers this far off the beaten path. In addition to the usual ride through company history, old techniques, and the family’s treasure trove, you’ll get a glimpse into production and laboratory work. A visit to the educational wine trail with 30 grape varieties is fascinating — it includes the realization that many of the supposedly indigenous Portuguese grape varieties aren’t as unique as believed.

For a taste: in Sesimbra area, you can find the simpler Freitas wines on every corner. However, they’re considered relatively high-priced with entry-level prices around five euros. In the larger supermarkets, the selection, price, and quality grow — the reds are robust and well-balanced, and the whites, surprisingly pleasant for the region.