Os 3 Reis (O Chico)

Base: Neighborhood gym in the middle of nowhere.

When we head out of Lisbon during meal times, we often take the route through Caparica. It’s not a detour, but it offers a handful of options for typical Portuguese cuisine in neighborhood restaurants.

The most loved example occupies an entire block in Charneca de Caparica. O Chico easily accommodates 200 people, and every evening the place is packed to the brim. Mixed grill platters with fish and meat, a portion for two easily satisfies four. That’s why almost all dishes are also available as half portions — if you want only one whole octopus, for example. Simply furnished, with bad news and football playing on a bunch of large-screen TVs. That’s Portugal.