Café de São Bento

Dining in the political parallel world.

 

In 1982, a few people opened a restaurant next to the parliament, inspired by the classic cafes of Lisbon. Previously owned by an antiquarian — and because that fits the concept so well, they don’t change much about the style. The ground floor is tiny, you can’t get in without a reservation, and you have to ring the bell for entry. You’ll be greeted by a professional waiter dressed in fine attire. Perhaps the best place to experience gastronomic tradition without touristy kitsch.

They serve the absolute classic of the turn of the 20th century: Bife. Sure, there are better steakhouses in the city, but the Bife is legendary — Filet Mignon with cream sauce and fries at a rather upscale price. There are also a few other good dishes available, but that’s not why you come here. Who goes here? A mix of upper-class Portuguese, middle-class tourists, and the occasional parliamentarian passing money briefcases under the table in the private rooms of the upper floors. The list of prominent guests is endless. Surprisingly child-friendly. But that’s typical too.