Jardim de Torel

FUNICULAR— PARK WITH A VIEW


Primarily the funicular railway without tourists.

Lots to discover left, right, up, and down. A relaxed little park with a great view of the Baixa. The idea: instead of heading left towards Rossio at Restauradores, go right past the National Theatre and Ginjinha Sem Rival. On the right is the Palácio da Independência, further up is the Casa do Alentejo, passing the Teatro Politeama, the Geographic Society, and one of Lisbon’s best hotels. On our bucket list is the wine bar O Jardim. Or you can bring a picnic box with you.

The railway takes you up the hill in three minutes. There are indeed some upscale spots in the area: the General Directorate of Justice Administration, the Galician Cultural Institute, and a semi-elite business club — you can see the terraces of these places with a glance up from Torel Park. The park has a few nice benches perfect for watching the sunset, so particularly savvy people stock up on drinks beforehand since the café isn’t always open. During walking hours, it’s a dog meet-up spot.

 



If you get hungry on the way down, please stop at Jesus é Goês. The chef is named Jesus because his mother is a devout Goan Catholic. His middle name is Lee because his father loves kung fu movies. The cuisine is somewhat similar. House wine available.
 
 

The return route can be via the stairs in the park, past the large basin that serves as a wading pool in summer. Back on the street, go left, and you’ll find the somewhat lackluster but well-stocked record store Carbono, next to the capital's branch of the super-hip brunch spot Zenith. A few minutes later, you’ll be on Avenida.