Fábrica do Braço de Prata

The Anjos 70 market and other alternative ideas are already passé — here, culture could prevail against capitalism. 

First off, the building is a 1990 decommissioned weapons factory with its heyday during the colonial wars. Located in Marvila, an industrial area discovered by investors and marketed as the ”most stylish and trendiest neighborhood” in the city. However, FBP (Fabrica Braco de Prata) is also the poster child for the associated problems dragged through the press — and hopefully remains one of the most fascinating places in the capital for a long time.

The story begins in 2007 with the search for a location for a philosophical bookstore. Because the construction of luxury apartments is put on hold during the last economic crisis and the developer goes bankrupt, the antiquarian Nuno Nabais suggests at least protecting the factory from decay until its future is clarified. Temporary use is approved, Nabais maintains electricity, water, and windows at his own expense — to this day, there has been no funding.

 

Salvador Sobral allegedly used to hang out in Marvila even before his 2017 ESC win and heart surgery, confusing people with sentimental murmuring. He can afford it: Sobral is distantly related (by five degrees) to the German royal family of Hohenzollern and is directly related to the Sousa-Holsteins — the Counts of Palmela, the former lords of Arrábida.

 

 

Spaces for events, galleries, and a restaurant are created around the library. The place quickly becomes very successful, often cited is an article from the New York Times calling Fábrica the most important cultural spot in Portugal. Well-known visitors include (as always) Madonna. Even the current Prime Minister expresses positivity, the university mentions ”creativity and culture as assets” and analyzes possible business models. José Saramago, a Nobel laureate after all, stands behind the idea.

As a result, the project cannot simply be flattened without triggering an extensive shitstorm: the bank remains stuck with the property. Authorities can't do much with the ”tolerated illegal occupation” and try to overwhelm Nabais and his helpers with inspections on building and food safety, suspecting black money and involving the tax office.

These bureaucratic measures are not successful. That’s good, not just for people who need a parking space for their caravans. Whether you come for a coffee, walk through the building for half an hour, come on Fridays for dinner and nightly ”Fatal Fado” with Ana Margarida, or attend a party in the bunker for ammunition tests: it’s worth it.