Palácio do Grilo

When conventions are momentarily set aside, the best can happen.

Originally named ”Palácio dos Duque de Lafões,” the first duke with this title was very involved in the reconstruction efforts after the 1755 earthquake. He chose to build his new palace on the elevated remains of a previous structure in the hills of Beato. Pedro Henrique de Bragança belonged to the highest nobility and was one of two candidates for the hand of Maria I, heir to the Portuguese throne. However, Maria chose to marry her uncle, over 40 years her senior, becoming the first reigning queen of Portugal. In Brazil, she’s celebrated for significant advancements toward political independence, while in Portugal, she's known as ”the Mad,” who would spend days screaming in her room at Queluz Palace.

 

Pedro, on the other hand, was likely one of the most enlightened individuals of his time. He was multilingual, didn't see the world solely through the lens of the Portuguese Empire, built an innovative palace, and even got his hands dirty in practical work. He invested his own money in debt relief for those left homeless by the earthquakes, dug trenches and graves — efforts that are believed to have contributed to his early demise. Pedro never married.

The last Duke of Lafões lived in Palácio do Grilo until 2018. Then, it was taken over by Parisian cultural millionaire Julian Labrousse. During cleanup efforts in the 200-room building, he reportedly found a sort of diary written by Pedro, expressing his desire for a place where everyone could be themselves and do whatever they pleased. Whether this is just a founding myth or not, Labrousse turned it into a reality.

Today, the palace is a blend of off-theater and restaurant, entirely absurd yet perfectly cohesive. At any moment, you might catch a glimpse of a ghostly figure passing by, while waiters pour regional organic wine and you attempt to find a comfortable seating position in the abstract furniture. Sometimes, an actor with a full beard and dominatrix costume might be sitting on your table in a wheelbarrow when you return from the restroom... You have to embrace an evening here, an experience you’re unlikely to encounter elsewhere. We think it's fantastic. Apparently, Madonna does too, as she celebrated her seemingly 100th birthday here in 2023. Let’s hope it doesn’t spark too much hype.