Palácio e Quinta da Bacalhôa

Wine giant named after the palace where the Portuguese version of Azulejo tiles are born.

The Winery

Bacalhôa is among the new Portuguese wine giants, a bit of an elephant in a china shop. The company didn’t organically grow but rather was thrust into the market with money in the 1980s. We view this positively because American investors bring fresh perspectives, propelling Portugal’s wine industry into modern times. Critics might argue that the wines taste the same everywhere, as they’re oriented towards the global market’s palate. Wine enthusiasts might find little individuality, but our palates note that Chardonnay doesn’t quite belong in the region as much as Cabernet does.

What the PR agency generally leaves out: at one point, José Manuel Rodrigues ”Joe” Berardo takes over. In Portugal, he’s known as a dubious nouveau riche. His wealth stems from dealings in South African gold and diamond mines, and his demeanor resembles that of an oil sheikh: in 2007, he attempts to buy Benfica Lisbon. During the last financial crisis, he overextends himself, leading to his arrest in 2021. The old man obstructs his trial by claiming mental incompetence, but we're pleased that the collection of the ”Portuguese Saatchi” remains on display despite being seized —although no longer under Berardo’s name since 2023.

The Palace

The first aristocratic summer residence is built in 1447 by Princess Beatrix, later the mother of King Manuel. Allegedly due to a lack of competent locals, the original design likely comes from an unknown Italian. The then ”Vila Fresca” gives its name to the surrounding neighborhood of Azeitão. In 1528, the estate passes to Brás de Albuquerque, son of Alfonso — governor of Portuguese India, the first European founder of a city in Asia since Alexander the Great, and the eccentric who ships a rhinoceros to Portugal to see if it can defeat an elephant. Spoiler: it doesn’t!

Brás accompanies the next Princess Beatrix to her wedding in Italy a few years earlier and brings Renaissance architecture home. Back in Lisbon, he embarks on a building project, which we now know as Casa dos Bicos. It’s possible that the neighboring nobility expresses some disapproval, prompting Mr. Albuquerque to prefer country living. This can be taken literally, as it takes 40 years from the first stone to the last tile. Speaking of tiles, they initially come from Seville but aren’t Portuguese enough for the owner. Now you know why there are so many Azulejo workshops in the area.

 

The ”Susanna in the Bath” from 1565 is Portugal’s oldest surviving tile painting and serves as a prototype for tile paintings. The biblical motif remains an enduring allegory of the oppression of women, interpreted by artists like Rembrandt and Rubens.

 

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The palace remains in the family for a long time. ”Bacalhôa” comes from the commander of an India fleet in the early 17th century. Opinions differ on whether this is a compliment to someone who saves his crew from scurvy with cod or derogatory because a general has to sell fish on the side.

When a millionaire from New York takes over in 1937, the place is rundown — the revival comes in 1974 through her grandson Thomas Scoville, who plants grapevines. For visits, head to the unmistakable visitor center with the amusing blue artwork in front. Tours happen at least once a day depending on the season and demand; otherwise, please book in advance.