Convento de Jesus

Few places embody world history as much, even if it’s not visible.

Standing somewhat bored on the edge of a thoroughfare in the already not particularly action-packed Setúbal is a monastery where world history is written in the most megalomaniacal sense: in 1494, King John II signs the outrageously grandiose Treaty of Tordesillas — of all places — in the women’s convent of a renunciation order. This treaty marks the papal division of the Earth into Spanish and Portuguese halves. One may well ask both governments why, 500 years later, they celebrate an anniversary for one of the greatest atrocities of humanity with fireworks and Spanish King Juan Carlos. In a square named after Jesus, no less. Setúbal and Tordesillas are sister cities.

Indeed, this topic is not addressed in today’s museum. You don’t necessarily have to go there; the most important works are temporarily hanging in the bank anyway. Simply standing in the meadow and pondering whether colonial history would be the same without this place suffices. Or you can delve into its architecture: Portugal’s first hall church is also the first test subject for the architecture known primarily through the monastery in Belém as ”Manueline.” It involves the creative representation of ”voyages of discovery” and an especially worldly, extravagant self-presentation. Specifically, load-bearing columns are interpreted as ship ropes.

The founding story is intriguing: the highborn Justa Rodrigues Pereira is said to have had a forbidden relationship with a Carmelite monk and bore two children with him. This seems to provoke a guilty conscience, as she separates from him, becomes the wet nurse of the later ”happy” King Manuel — and also seems to impart to him a piece of her extreme religiosity. Pereira purchases the property outside the gates of her residence in Setúbal in 1489 at her own expense and initiates the construction of the reform monastery there. The square in front of it is donated by Jorge de Lancastre, who accommodates his daughters in the convent. Pereira is buried here.